Walking Tour in Belgrade: Discovering Dorćol, Skadarlija & Kalemegdan with a Local Guide
One of the best ways to fall in love with Belgrade is to walk through its streets. Recently, I joined my friend Olivera, founder of Still in Belgrade, for a private walking tour through Dorćol, one of the city’s oldest and most atmospheric neighborhoods. From Skadarlija to Kalemegdan Fortress, the experience gave me a whole new appreciation for the city's layered history, hidden gems, and evolving creative energy.
Starting in Skadarlija: The Bohemian Heart of Belgrade
We began our tour in Skadarlija, Belgrade’s famous bohemian quarter. With cobblestone streets, vintage lanterns, and historic kafanas (traditional Serbian restaurants), Skadarlija feels like stepping back in time. Olivera shared fascinating stories of the artists, poets, and musicians who once called this area home.
While many tourists come here for the photo ops, hearing the history from a local gave it so much more meaning. I learned about how Skadarlija emerged as Belgrade’s cultural hub in the 19th century—and how it still holds that spirit today.
Wandering Through Dorćol: Street Art, History & Soul
From Skadarlija, we wandered into Dorćol, one of my favorite areas in the city. It’s a neighborhood where Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, socialist, and contemporary architecture all blend together. But it’s not just the buildings—Dorćol tells the story of Belgrade’s resilience and reinvention.
Olivera pointed out hidden murals, tucked-away cafes, and old Jewish and Ottoman landmarks that I would’ve missed on my own. She introduced me to creative spaces, concept stores, and pop-up art galleries that reflect the younger, edgier side of Belgrade.
We talked about how Dorćol is constantly evolving—balancing its historical roots with modern, urban culture. It's no surprise that this neighborhood is a favorite for locals, expats, and artists alike.
Ending at Kalemegdan Fortress: Where Time Stands Still
We finished the walking tour at the iconic Kalemegdan Fortress, overlooking the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. As the sun started to set, the view was breathtaking. Olivera shared stories about the fortress’s role through centuries of conflict and change—from Roman times to the Ottoman Empire, and both World Wars.
We stood at the walls, taking it all in—the city, the rivers, and the peace of the moment. It was a powerful reminder of how much history Belgrade has witnessed, and how it continues to move forward while honoring the past.
Final Thoughts
If you’re planning to visit Belgrade or you're already here, I highly recommend booking a walking tour with Still in Belgrade. Walking with a local like Olivera doesn’t just show you the city—it lets you feel it.
Whether you're a curious traveler or a long-term expat like me, you’ll leave the tour with more than just photos. You’ll leave with stories, context, and a deeper connection to Belgrade’s vibrant soul.
If you want to book a tour with me or with Olivera email me at contact.abcexperiences@gmail.com.
